Puffin Island Wonders

A fair forecast, a chance to catch up with old friends and meet new, tempted me out onto the sea for the first time in quite a while. The plan, fairly straightforward, was to launch at Llanfairfechan and paddle around Puffin Island, some five miles distant across the Eastern end of the Menai Straits.
Mary knows the way ahead! Early into the crossing to Puffin, Great Orme in the distance.

Llanfairfechan is a pleasant enough old sea-side town. Now easily overlooked and by-passed like its near neighbour, Penmaenmawr, by the very road which made them popular in Victorian times. The A55 used to bring tourists and trade to these small coastal towns. So with the advent of the Expressway, time has stood still and if anything there was an air of dereliction about the area not long ago. The new road takes the rushing crowds further on to Anglesey and the Llyn, to sunnier sandier beaches. While quietly and discretely these forgotten towns have been slowly recovering and re-emerging in their own right.
Bumpy water along the cliffs on the North side of Puffin Island, looking West towards Pen Trwyn

The small slipway and shingle beach is a pleasant and quiet enough place to launch. From here we set off, a little later than expected, but still in good time to make the crossing to arrive at Puffin by local High Water at half past one. The Met Office forecast for the day gave a force 3-4 NW-N wind, which proved accurate. One bonus being more sunshine than predicted!
Mary..It's behind you!! The friendly seal emerges at the back of her boat

I was pleasantly surprised how quickly I found my "sea-legs" and it was as though I'd been paddling only yesterday. Though the breeze was not strong, it was Northerly. The sea here is shallow, with mud and sandbanks exposed at low water. So in only moderate winds, the sea can become quite unpleasant. In fact the crossing seemed to pass quickly, taken up with chatting and catching up. There is always a point on any crossing though..when it seems no progress is being made. Similar to walking in the hills and the never reached summit that always seems so far off.
Very inquisitive young seal comes out of the water to see what Maurice has for lunch!

We rounded the Eastern end of Puffin, where there is a Seal colony. Today however there were only two or three to be seen. It was just about High Water, so most were probably out hunting. As expected, the water became quite bumpy with the cliffs exposed to the North. I'd been slightly nervous about this, but again should have had more faith in my ability. I'm sure that riding a horse and kayaking have transferable qualities. Core body strength, whilst remaining relaxed and balanced.
A very cute pose! Do I know you??

The island is home to many breeding seabirds. The higher cliffs and surrounding water and sky were full of life. Razorbills and Guillemots everywhere..some so full of fish they could hardly fly! Of all the gulls, Kittiwakes are my favourite, with better manners and a more refined attitude all round compared with some of their squabbling relatives. And yes...we saw Puffins! Only recently has the island been rid of rats. So it's a delight to see these comical birds making a return.
A quick play in the building tide race in Puffin Sound, before heading home

The tide was already running in Puffin Sound. But a quick cut through soon had us land discretely on the tiny beach of white shingle. Here we had quite a surprise with a young Grey Seal playing fearlessly amongst our boats. Seals are very inquisitive, and very often sneak up behind our boats, they're also wary and the first eye to eye contact, usually has them dive below, with a big blow! so we were even more surprised when our seal came out of the water and sat on the each with us! Is this possibly an ex rescue animal? Nonetheless a charming encounter which topped an amazing day so far.
A dazzling day finished on a very bright note....Llanfairfechan not too distant now

I'm sure I was not alone in wanting to stay longer, but the now ebbing tide would soon empty the water from this estuary area. It had become quite hazy and the coast where we were headed now looked quite indistinct. I paddled with Mary. Whilst Maurice and Julian drifted off somewhat as Juilan tried out his sail rig..to some good effect. We went through an area of what I can only describe as gloopy water, where we were bumped around a bit and though we were paddling, didn't seem to be actually going anywhere. The sea became quieter...the sun came back and suddenly we could see Llanfairfechan in the distance! All of a sudden a huge flock of birds rose from the water infront...hundreds of Common Scoter, they'd been feeding on the muscle beds submerged. Further in the distance we could see the unmistakable black wingtips and bright white of Gannets searching for fish and Sandwich Terns sporadically dropping in emerging with beak-fulls of sand eels! I can only say wow...what an amazing day. We landed and packed up in the sun...this is how it should be...

Lovely Day on Tryfan

Tryfan is a very impressive mounain. Part of the Glyder range in Snowdonia, defiantly standing alone, imposingly, above Llyn Ogwen. Not as tall as its near neighbours to the South, what it lacks in height, it more than makes up for in attitude. Across the valley, the attractively named Pen Yr Ole Wen tries hard to match with it's steep South West attack. Not forgetting the two huge brooding brothers Dafydd and Llewelyn, whose dominant mass guards the Irish Sea to the North and give the Carneddau their rugged reputation.
Typical rock architecture of Tryfan's East Face looking from the Heather Terrace

Tryfan is for mountaineers. There are very few grassy bits to be seen. Any of these are usually boggy. It is the kind of place that isn't for stopping and reflection. This is an action packed novel to be read from cover to cover without interuption!
Along the Heather Terrace path looking South towards Bristly Ridge and Glyder Fach

The most popular way to climb Tryfan is to scramble directly up the North Ridge. This is a classic route, very exciting with some absorbing puzzles to overcome. Higher up the ridge becomes more exposed and constrained. So on busy days impatient traffic jams form, which detracts from my own mountain pleasure. There will be plenty of time to sit in real traffic jams, possibly on the drive home on the A55!
Mountain mayhem...at just over 3000 feet, the jamboree that is the summit on a fine day!

So on a lovely sunny Saturday, in half term holidays a more subtle, but equally satisfying route to Tryfan's strange summit of Adam and Eve, was called for. Liz and I left the car parked down by the lake shore. The climbing starts quickly anywhere on this terrain. We were soon gaining height looking for the start of the Heather Terrace path. This route ignores the obvious North Ridge and skirts a natural shelf along the East face of the mountain. There are many graded rock climbs along this side and the path once located leads like a guide book to challenging cliffs and dark damp gullies. I'm always in awe of climbers! There were plenty already clanking and jingling their way up. In the meantime we took in the sun and the views. Yes the sun was very strong and I'd forgotten suncream!!
Looking Northwest from the summit. Pen Yr Ole Wen to the right, the Glyders left along the Ogwen valley to the sea and Anglesey distant in the haze.

The Heather Terrace is a beautiful place and it is obvious how it got it's name. Gradually climbing, it finishes at the pass which separates the Far South Peak from the rest of the mountain. A short section of scree to negotiate had us warming up to a sweat. It's on these occasions that with your face looking down, working hard, that little bits of the mountain come in view. In amongst all the loose rock were quite a variety of well hidden flowers. It is to my annoyance that I can't remember what they look like. Nor did I take photos! Which of course means I will have to return. Hope the goats who live up here don't find them ..
Crazy blocks of rock seem to cling recklasly to the impossibly steep slopes, to the lake below

We were now on the push to the top, scaling the South ridge, against the tide of people descending this way. Before long we found the summit. I'm lucky being able to climb here out of season and mid week. Today it was pretty busy! Bunch of macho lads playing on Adam and Eve....young family with grumbling kids...old folk with dogs, being dive bombed by seagulls! Which also goes to show how on a good day just about everyone can get here, and why not! The views are amazing....
Llyn Bochlwyd viewed from Tryfan, showing the reason for its nickname Lake Australia!

We took a very steep descent path off the West of the mountain. Which follows one of the deep gullies, which then runs out by the side of the Milestone Buttress and down to the lake. The chaos of van sized rock slabs strewn around is everywhere and so characteristic f this range..the Glyderau. I think a lose translation of the Welsh word means litter. It is as though a giant threw his toys out of his pram once...like a child dumping a load of lego bricks.
Paraglider above Llyn Ogwen.

Whilst descending this path, looking down towards Llyn Bochlwyd..or Lake Australia, from its shape! We watched someone setting up and launching a paraglider. Gradually as we descended the steep rocky path. This paraglider swooped and rose in thermals. What a fascinating sight. I know that Liz had the idea that next time a glide from the top would save all the aches and pains of the rocky path down. True...but this thing kept going up! So ended a very, very satisfying day

Do Horses like Cricket...or just eyeing up the grass?

Heather and Ouzo mirrored...possibly posing, as a flock of birds fly from the grass!

This time of year is fantastic..though very tiring! I seem to wake early with the birds singing and the early daylight. If the sun is shining and there's a blue sky, there is no way I can stay in bed. The weather has been generally fair and warm. At last...at long last, we got some rain. So I had a good chance to take Heather out and not feel guilty about how hard the ground was.
Heather down the lane, making sure everything is in order, blowing at anything out of place.!!

During the week I picked up a horsey magazine in W H Smiths. By chance there was an article on having horse leg injuries properly scanned for full diagnosis of injuries. A tale of warning, told of a poor horse with a missed stress fracture! I don't know what Heather's injury was. But she's had the best of my limited but enthusiastic attention and a good dollop of Mother Nature's best. So cautiously, I'm starting to take her out again.
Fallen tree along Kickety Brook halted our progress...then the flies started to bite!
Fetching her in from the field has become quite varied. I've learned that when she's in season, she will totally ignore my call and probably show displeasure at my approach...to which she gets a smack with a rope. On other occasions, I've caught her napping..literally and made her jump out of her skin by sneaking up on her...dozing! Once or twice I've called her, like last night, she's looked straight up and whinnied across the field. Started trotting towards me..then as Ouzo has joined in, picked up the pace. Then inevitably all the others see them running and, as horses do...run too!
Not much short of a stampede develops, into a big ruck at the gate. With one lucky fat mare being pulled from the chaos!
I'm so glad there was a river between us and the cricket ground..she looked very interested in the wicket!

I've taken her out a couple more times. once just after a big rain shower. I'd already decided that apart from exercise, a crossing of the "green bridge" was needed. This horse menacing structure has long been feared by many a brave steed! Not only does it clank frighteningly under shod hoof, it has a roaring weir in the crocodile, (logs) infested water below. Not to mention the road bridge carrying 50 mile per hour juggernauts just to the side!! So I wasn't surprised to find two riders attempting to cross from the other side...unsuccessfully! Heather waited patiently. Eventually the others gave up and it was our turn. With a little encouragement we were on. Oh but what a fuss. In the rain covered bridge, she could see her own reflection! Obviously she hasn't realised how scary she looks and shied from her own image!! She also poo-ed herself...at which she spooked on the return. After all, that wasn't there before!!!
The proverbial hungry horse with her head firmly wedged in yet another bucket of feed...

On another occasion I took her out on a very pleasant morning. I intended taking her down to Banky Meadow. We found the way down the lane blocked by vehicles dredging the ditches. Without wanting trouble, I turned round...now in the direction of home. Then asked her to go onwards over the green bridge. In the past this would have caused a big fight...but she went. Onwards down Kickety Brook, for the first time in months. To find our way blocked by a fallen tree. Which Heather was disgusted at and snorted so! Not to mention all the flies that seemed all to have been starved of horse flesh and now had a victim!! So we beat another retreat..in the direction of home. But I tested her again...turning left along the river...not right. She wasn't happy but I easily pushed her on with only leg..no smacking needed. We even stopped to watch some cricket across the river, before turning for home. Now that's something not many people have done! Watch cricket on horseback!!! Felt terribly "British" don't you know! Think it was all lost on her, the grass beneath her feet was far longer and tastier than the trimmed stuff on the wicket. She must think I'm strange!
Heather looks on jealously, at Ouzo's four legs in a line balancing act! Cheeky pony..

Her injured leg is standing up to this. No sign of stumbling or obvious lameness. On her weak right rein she is still stiff and not straight...possibly added to by the injury. However tonight I rode. On the way home I let her extend on this rein. She straightened...her action much better. She's also looking very good...in nice condition with a shiny coat. I'm so pleased!

Cuckoos and Skylarks

My recent paddle on Windermere, reminded me of some of the beautiful and impressive landscape this area has to offer. Sometimes it's all to easy to overlook places close to home. However a quick visit to any Lakeland town or village, is proof enough that this is a Worldwide tourist destination. There are so many jaw dropping, awe inspiring landscapes globally, yet the English Lakes still captivates so many, with coach loads of visitors from far and wide.

Approaching Waterhead from Windermere. Fairfield Horseshoe in the background

Today I was looking to re-acquaint myself with some classic Lakeland high fells. I parked up at Waterhead, by Ambleside, the destination of my recent paddle! On yet another lovely, sunny but hazy morning. My goal being to climb and walk the Fairfield Horseshoe, which gives the Victorian town of Ambleside its scenic backdrop.The waterfalls at Rydal Hall, which because I've previously walked in the opposite direction, have never seen!

Ambleside sits peacefully at the Northern end of Lake Windermere. From luxury hotels to campsite, four star food to fish chips, it's all to be found here. Not to mention enough outdoor shops to keep the small army of happy trippers kitted out in waterproofs and Wainwrights. Cleverly I thought, I'd timed my walk through town before the shops opened. Though with the smell of bacon in the air, I couldn't help notice...well drool at fine, full fry up breakfasts being served up in B n B's, along the way.

My route took me through the parklandof the Rydal Estate, with its fine hall. A cheeky Chaffinch tempted me to take his photo...waiting just long enough on each fence post, before flying, mockingly to the next! There are formal gardens here which I might someday find time to discover. But on this occasion a visit to the waterfalls below the tea-rooms was all I had time for. Though with the mossy coolness and magical captivation that waterfalls seem to hold, I can easily see why a Summer house was built here, overlooking.

Looking down onto Rydal Water from Nab Scar, Grasmere on the right and the Langdales distant.

Nab Scar is a steep way up! Of course the rewards of quick climbs are usually good views. So every now and then I stopped to catch my breath, keep the sweat out of my eyes, turn round and look down on Rydal Water. With more of neighbouring Grasmere visible with every inch gained. All the time to the hypnotic call of cuckoos, rising from somewhere, down in the woods below.
Great Rigg on the left, followed by Fairfield, Hart Crag and Dove Crag at the head of Rydal Fell

The path from now is clear and though still climbing, far less intense. This is the first time I've walked in this direction. Indeed most people go anti-clockwise. Which is exactly why I've done the opposite. So far I have not seen another person! The views are becoming more open and extensive. However the cloud also seems to becoming darker towards Fairfield, the highest point of the day. So I keep a good pace.
The attractively named St Sunday Crag viewed from Fairfield tempts me North and to Patterdale and Ullswater...but not today

At Great Rigg I stopped a while. I let myself fall onto deep, dry, springy grass. Normally this would be wet and soggy, but in this current dry spell, felt more like a big spongy doormat. The views into Rydal Fell and the head of the valley are spectacular from here. Shared only with Skylarks. Probably my best moment of a great day...just lying in the grass, watching and listening to them, with all of Lakeland as a backdrop.
Looking down Rydal Fell to Windermere, with Coniston visible far right above Heron Pike

I didn't hang around on Fairfield. The wind was cold up there and it felt grey and unwelcoming. The summit is indistinct, with a typical wind shelter and cairn, which in poor visibility can be hard to locate.. Today, though, the views were far reaching and scenic, but I had the urge to keep moving, downhill from now on....mostly!
From Scandale Pass looking North onto Brothers Water and Hartsop, Martindale beyond.

One thing I do enjoy about being in the hills alone, is descending quickly. I realise this is not to everyones taste or capability, so in company I take this into account. But why not exploit gravity? I also get quite a buzz from running, just in control and balance, down steep slopes. Just like galloping a horse, or running a white water rapid, there's an edge! That just survived feeling..
Directly in line from Red Screes, Middle Dodd overlooks Brothers Water, with Place Fell looking on just breaking the horizon

So in a very short time, the rocky Dove and Hart Craggs were passed. A quick glance at my watch and the map. At this rate I'd be back in Ambleside for lunch! So a detour..an addition, took me down a boggy slope, following a National Trust boundary. At Scandale Pass I met my first other people....
Almost back in Ambleside, Wansfell Pike has lush green pasture to its lower slopes

Here again I had a choice of routes. I love the Lakes for this. There are so many options, which makes this kind of roaming the fells so enticing. I'd seen Red Screes on the map and in the distance all day. Now I was looking up its slopes. Before long I was halfway up looking down onto Brothers Water and another idyllic vista, begging exploration...for another day though. I understand that the campsite and nearby pub are excellent.
I cannot recommend highly enough, the delicious ice-cream and coffee from the lakeside cafe at Waterhead.

From the top of Red Screes my new views were down into the infamous Kirkstone Pass and across towards the Kentmere Fells. I ran most of the long sloping descent into Ambleside, slowly changing from high fell to walled fields of dangerously horned looking cattle! Through the throngs of happy shoppers, to a seat at the lakeside cafe. So I earned my delicious whippy icecream. It was so pleasant sat in the warm sun that I stayed for a coffee...and admired the pretty waitress. Can't wait to return!

Fantastic News...!!

Today I rode Heather!!!! Much sooner than I thought possible. Everything seemed right and buoyed by last weeks progress...thought, let's do it...let's go! First of my days off, sunny, breezy and cool. Just perfect. I dragged her saddle out with the rest of her tack. A little ashamed, I've never got round to cleaning it in all the time she's been out of action. I suppose I've been in denial and not wanted to wash away the memories of that last ride...so long ago.
Heather tacked up for the first time in months

Brought her in as on so many other mornings, but today was different. Tacked up without a fuss...except I forgot her girth!! Quick trip to the car and tried fastening it up. To my great surprise, she's actually put on weight! Few adjustments here and there and yes, we're one hole down on her "normal". So again my hard work and effort through the cold grass-less times have payed off.
Down the lane....will you look at all that mane!!

There were a few people around...and I told a couple. But really as I got on at the mounting block, it all felt slightly flat. Where were the fanfares and flags....speeches and announcements. Instead we slipped our moorings and went up the drive off the yard as though it was any horse on any day! But this was very special. I'm sure she knew.
Showing no ill effects, but ready to go back to the field and friends....

Off down the lane. She was striding purposely and completely sound. No limp...no stumbling. She was quite spooky and on her toes. In reality she didn't put a foot wrong. We got to the river all too quick. This is where I'd intended turning round for home. I tried to let her eat grass, but she wanted to keep moving!!! So we walked down towards Banky Meadow. Here we turned at the start of the "sandy track". I hope she keeps this forward going walk...what a delight! We trotted for a hundred yards on the way home, both diagonals. I'm still not absolutely sure, but that's good. She is not far off totally sound, and probably just a little stiff. I can't believe I just rode the three legged horse of a few months ago.
I went shopping for treats! So whisky for the horse...fruit and veg for me, ...right??!

Ouzo was calling and happy to see H return to the field. I went shopping and bought Heather more delicious treats and a bottle of whisky for myself. Rewards all round for a perfect first ride.

Very Good News...!!

During the week, the farrier visited and Heather had a trim and new shoes. I took the opportunity to trot her up for his opinion on her progress. It's difficult for me to tell how she's going when I'm close up to her. So it was good to get his view, which I value. The verdict....she's level. This is very good news. When she was initially injured I wasn't the only one who feared the very worst. So this is a major milestone.
Ouzo standing infront of Heather

More good news. Her feet are in the best condition yet. Testimony to my religious care and attention and Wayne's judgement and skill, in trimming and shoeing. He has suggested I should think about getting her back in work. Tempered slightly with the concern that the bony growth, now quite evident at the point of injury on her leg, may interfere with her movement.
The grass next door looks greener....

So my original estimate of June looks to have been about right. Whilst I feel good about having got so far. I dare not celebrate anything yet, in as much as I don't want to feel disappointment if things don't go well. It's been a long wait and I'm not going to rush in now. Particularly as the ground everywhere is set like concrete. The weather has been fantastic recently....just when I could do with some rain!! All through the Spring it rained and rained...now it's dry, oh apart from one wet night.
But not as good as a bucket of breakfast!

Heather herself has been a little devil in the field. Though the grass in her field is very short, poor and over-grazed...it obviously tastes very good! She no longer comes to a call and during the last week has been in season. I have been threatened by her, as have most of her field mates! I don't know what goes on when I'm not around, but she seems to be picking up lots of cuts, bruises and bites! She gives in to me though. I know her well enough to realise that her threats are just that, if returned equally...she's just a big bully.

Mountain high!

I'd finished another hard shift at work. Lots of things pointed to having the first of my four days off, just relaxing. So why was I rustling things together, late at night and setting my alarm clock for...well too early! Told myself it could all just as easily get packed away...I didn't realy have to go. Indeed I rolled over after the alarm went off. It's so much harder doing things by yourself....no one to tut tut if you're late. What made it more difficult was I hadn't even decided where I was going to go...well somewhere in the Lakes or Snowdonia. Then it dawned on me, after a short doze....I was totally free to go and do whatever I liked....now if that isn't worth doing...then what is!
Having that first lovely hot coffee helped me decide my destination. The weather has been so good for more than a week, with wall to wall sunshine forecast yet again. So it had to be somewhere spectacular...where I wouldn't go alone in marginal conditions. Crib Goch, in Snowdonia. A high knife-edge ridge walk with un-rivaled views coupled with knee trembling exposure...oh yes, a good choice.
To spice things up further I also chose to climb from the North ridge approach. One major advantage to this route is being able to park the car free and almost anytime in the village of Nant Peris. Most people scrap for a slot in the Pen Y Pass carpark and pay handsomely.
After a short walk out of the village, soon found myself at the small bridge over the Afon Nant Peris at Blaen Y Nant. Here the Afon Gennog joins from the South, draining the very slopes I was about to climb. Conveniently a wall follows the river on the East side. So following up was easy despite there being no path to speak of. Behind me now rising were the slopes of the Glyderau. I stopped and watched climbers on the lower cliffs roped impossibly, yet progressing steadily up the shear rock.
Infront the slope climbed steadily for me. I was looking for a waterfall to the right of a huge rock bluff, with the grand sounding name of Dinas Mot. Once reached I took a break and looked round admiring the view and feeling good with my effort so far. I remember mentally noting that this would be a tricky place to be in poor visibility! But not today so onwards...
Glaslyn and Snowdon from Garnedd Ugain
Soon I was on the characteristic red coloured scree of the North ridge, or in fact the whole mountain. The name Crib Goch, translates to Red Ridge. I could already make out the ant like silhouettes of walkers on the ridge proper. I also felt pleased in the fact that I was the only person approaching from this direction....where the rock is quite loose!
Jagged rock of Garnedd Ugain
The ridge itself has to be seen to be appreciated. On my first ever visit I was awe struck and quite intimidated. I crawled along, hardly daring to acknowledge the sheer drop, particularly on the left. This is like walking on the ridge of a house roof. By my third visit....despite my fear of the first time...I went up alone. Though this is no picnic walk....Crib Goch is within the reach of many people. A day never to be forgotten.
Looking back at Crib Goch
Having said all that, it's a bloody hard slog too. Without streams or lakes, it's dry as well!! So after negotiating the pinnacles, I sat in the peace of Bwlch Coch sipping the last of my water!! Soon negotiated more rock achitecture and avoided the trig point of Garnedd Ugain. Instead I dropped to a rarely visited spur, Gyrn Las, looking over the whole of my journey so far, and down to my descent route.
Unique view from Gyrn Las
I briefly joined the Llanberis path from Snowdon's summit. At Clogwyn station, I more or less dropped straight down without trace...down steeply and anonymously...descending steep scree and grass slopes. Right down into the valley. Found a lovely little stream and waterfalls, which must pound in spate...but today were quite magical and put a lovely freshness to a truely magnificent day!