Tripped up, down a Mountain!

Was definitely a wrench leaving Manchester on a warm sunny morning, knowing that my destination was already grey and damp. The forecast wasn't great but good enough and I'd taken a peek from the webcam that sits on Elidir Fach, looking across to Snowdon. Mist and light rain...typical mountain weather. So by the time I arrived in Nant Peris, I was pleased to find the cloud above the tops and felt optimistic for a good day. On a practical note I have a couple of grumbles. The car park toilets were locked...not good at the end of a two hour drive fuelled on coffee! I also noticed with disgust that a pay to park machine was being installed by workmen. This car park is underused and traditionally has been used as an overspill from the always chocka Pen Y Pass car park further up. I've always seen not having to pay as a reward for keeping things running smoothly, as it were, and putting up with a long walk in.
Looking South West from Carnedd a Filiast across the Marchlyn Mawr reservoir to Elidir Fawr

My first ascent was in front of me. Elidir Fawr stands at 924 metres commanding the backdrop to the North. This is a hard slog. A path cuts diagonally up, relentless in direction and slope, though always up, interspersed with bogs. Not until the last hundred metres or so does the grass give way to rock and loose boulders. So it was with relief that I stumbled into the summit cairn crater. Since the mountain stands alone, the views are far reaching with all the familiar tops easily recognisable. Keeping on a Northerly theme, I descended steep scree and skirted round the far end of the Marchlyn Mawr reservoir. This is part of a hydro-electric power station deep with in the mountain and well worth a visit to the impressive man made caverns within. I was soon climbing once more, amongst flowering Heather to the top of Carnedd Y Filiast. The views now down into the Ogwen Valley.
The Atlantic Slabs, former sea-bed like crazy paving gone mad at 45 degrees!

The obvious path across to the next peak of Mynydd Perfedd skirts the edge of Cwm Graianog. Here without a doubt are some of the strangest and most impressive rock formations to be found. A former section of seabed perches crazily at forty five degrees, halfway up a mountain! I did cautiously venture on, but soon retreated after slip on some moss made me remember the saying about rolling stones gathering no moss!
View from my new found path, looking at the head of the Ogwen Valley, with Tryfan central.

I was looking forward to the next part of my adventure. The obvious and popular way ahead is to now follow the ridge and stay high.I've walked this many times and it is very satisfying. However the views into the Ogwen Valley are not as good as perhaps expected. Just before the steep climb to Foel Goch, there are two stiles. So shunning the ridge, I took the second stile and descended a steep grassy slope into Cwm Bual. On good advice, I easily located a stile painted blue and crossed it following a broken wall and fence line. Soon I was on a feint but obvious path that contoured round and headed up the valley about halfway between the valley floor and the ridge above. What a delightful little path, never in doubt and entertaining enough. With views into the Cwms above, crossing small streams and short-lived scree, flowering Heather and a different slant on familiar slopes! I passed beneath an enticing looking puzzle of rock formations marked on my map as the "Mushroom Garden", so have left further reason to return! The path even deposited me exactly at the climb from Llyn Idwal to Y Garn.
Refreshing waterfall in Cwm Padraig, useful for washing away blood and sweat....

Y Garn is an impressive mountain in its own right. Today it was getting just a bit part in my day. The cloud had covered the tops now and a slight drizzle kept me busy climbing as the closer I got to the top, the lower the cloud seemed to come! I didn't even stop on the summit. My mind was already ahead of me and I was feeling a bit tired after the excitement of discovery earlier. So I soon found myself on autopilot running down familiar slopes of scree. Then in an instant I caught a toe...fell onto my elbow, banged my knee, rolled over on my pack and was on my feet still descending wondering what was about to give! Unbelievably both hands had mere pin pricks on the palms, my right elbow was grazed and slightly cut and I had dirt all over my right thigh and back pack..that's all! So I slowed and counted how many blessings. Found the scenic route down through Cwm Padraig and stopped a while to refresh my self and wash by a waterfall. This is a brilliant way to spend a day!

I've Entered The 2008 Snowdonia Marathon..

Oh dear..what have I done! I keep telling myself "I only entered," but I know full well in myself I'll give it my best efforts. Quite a number of years ago I ran two marathons, the Stockport and Manchester finishing in 3hrs41 and 3hrs 22 respectively. It's no coincidence that I haven't been stupid enough to repeat the torture since!
The start of the 2007 Snowdonia Marathon. This year I'll hopefully be competing..not watching!

A couple of years ago I used running as part of my fitness regime for a successful attempt to climb all 15, 3000 foot peaks in Snowdonia. With my new found fitness I did have thoughts of making a grand effort in perhaps the New York or London Marathon. However the hype these events carry with them put me right off. So last year, I was secretly envious of my brother's entry in the Snowdonia Marathon. Well on 25th October t will be my turn. I started my training with a ten mile walk climbing the peaks of Elidir Fawr and Y Garn. Followed by a five mile run yesterday along the river banks locally. If nothing else, my increased exercise will enable me to eat more curry and chocolate and drink more beer...so bring it on!

Breakout..!!

Big change in things since only a week ago! First a foremost..maybe I was being blinkered to how much grass there was in the "graveyard" field. There is none left...what there is is soured. Heather is losing weight and her field mate horses are looking even more skinny. Early this morning around six, some of the ponies escaped and invaded the village, looking for breakfast in peoples gardens! Luckily all were caught and returned without incident. Heather is a good horse and will stay put in the most barren mud pit...shaking her head like a poor nodding donkey at all the pesky flies!
Definitely not flattering, but truthful, and this was a week ago..the grass is running out

I've put her back onto more or less Winter feed regime...it's all I can do to try and keep her weight on. I've been trying a new fly repellent idea from Your Horse magazine..a tablespoon of Kerosene in a gallon of water. I think the flies are very determined! Has made her mane and tail nice though! After a chat at the yard with Sandra, it seems the Chemist in Asda still sells Citronella oil. So we're now back on the old fly formula! Only wish the rain would stop rinsing my efforts away.
Allowable snacks on the hoof..look at all that grass! But I say when and for how long..I'm boss hoss!

I've ridden her for an hour or so each of the last four days. Just out and about locally. She's been good. She walked at a pace today..always difficult for her..she prefers to trot slowly! I've asked for more canter and she's willing and even picked up on the right-hand lead when asked a couple of times. Perhaps because I've given her plenty of grass snack breaks, she's also quite happy to be told where to go, even if it did mean not going home quite when she thought she should. Has this "witch" finally realised I'm in charge. I never thought she was naughty or evil. I've taken all opinions and suggestions on board and mixed them with my own and somewhere a couple of years down the road, think I've got a good idea of what this horse is all about!!
I keep a deep a seat and low heel while she's eating out. She's away from home on her own, so on her toes! I have to let her have all the rein to eat and she does spook!

We're on another tub of the NAF Shake Relief and so far no result! I'm starting to wonder whether the fact that Heather is living out and constantly in bright light and exposed to flies, is making her symptoms worse? So even though I'm cursing all this rain, perhaps it's a blessing for her! Seeing that her leg injury seems settled, perhaps it's time to start riding in the indoor school again. She hardly head shakes in there. All for next week, I'm back in work tomorrow, but at least I know tonight she's on good grass, after the breakout, they were moved to a temporary enclosure at the back..fewer flies too!

Horse Talk

Back in early June, when I last updated on Heather horse's progress, I think I was hoping for more rain! The ground was like concrete. Completely the opposite now. Barely a day goes by without rain of some sort. Heavy, sometimes thundery downpours seem to have become the norm for the afternoons. So now the ground is soaked, huge puddles everywhere and almost as much mud as in the Winter! Whilst the temperature is pleasant enough and the long hours of daylight are useful, I can't help have a nagging feeling that we're in for another disappointing Summer.
Heather happy in the "neutral zone" of the "graveyard" field looking forward to her tea!

The school horses and ponies, including Heather of course, are now in what is in effect the Summer paddock...known as the "graveyard" as it adjoins St Martins churchyard. This is a lovely field, with shelter in the form of trees and hedges, good drainage and there was good grass! With up to twenty hungry horses at a go, the grass can't grow quick enough! If I'm not riding, I bring her into a small sectioned off safe zone by the gate to feed and fuss her. She's always accompanied by Ouzo, and jealously watched by the others.
Looking impressive and ready to go out and about on a lovely sunny day

Until recently I've been making my own fly spray, to help keep her more comfortable. When the weather was drier there seemed to be far more flies. I'm using a recipe I found on-line somewhere and adjusted to suit. Main active ingredient being Citronella oil. I was buying the oil from Boots for about £3-50 for 100ml. For some reason or other, they've stopped selling it...something to do with it being an unlicensed product. My "fly spray" mix, including black tea and cider vinegar was applied using a household bottle spray...same one lasted all last Summer. I found an article in a horse magazine saying that kerosene heavily diluted in water is a good fly deterrent..so I thought I'd try substituting the oil for kerosene. Seemed to work quite well, only trouble being the seals in the squirty bottle dissolved and the bottle started to disintegrate. I also have to make sure no one smokes around her!! Anyway the rain has made it all seem pointless. No sooner have I sprayed her than a shower comes and washes it all off.
Trotting across the "canter field" which has recently become too boggy to walk in!

We've been out and about too. Last week when she needed her feet trimming and shoes, I realised I've been riding her for six weeks. In all this time she as only stumbled on her injured leg twice. Admittedly there have been days when I wasn't at all sure if she was sound, but we've carried on and things have been fine. It's hard to tell because she's never been right in the first place and on bad ground, with a slippery layer of mud it's even harder to tell. Well the long and short of it is she's putting on weight with the good grass and needs exercise! To her credit, she's done everything I've asked, though she's become more spooky and shies more than she used to. This really adds to the enjoyment of riding her, laughing at what makes her scared and giving her the confidence to push on. She is brave, things do worry her, but she will always go in the end. On more than one occasion we've been chased by loose dogs. Now I've never been keen on dogs and for once, it's probably me who is more afraid. Whenever a dog chases, I stop Heather. She stands like a statue, despite leaping, barking dogs. The owners never seem to get the idea into their heads, that Heather isn't in the slightest bothered..but one day she might just kick one of these silly pooches.This only goes to strengthen my theory that she's an old hunting horse. The other day one woman was so engrossed in her mobile phone conversation, that she hadn't realised her dog had been hassling us for quite a while. I lost patience and turned Heather to face the dog. We advanced and soon turned tails.ha! Poor dog ran very fast away from us, only stopping well past its yabbering owner, still unaware!
On the way home from Banky Meadow.

One thing that has not changed is her head shaking. I have previously written on here about her condition. When worked for five minutes or so in trot, she begins to snort, soon followed by anything from thrashing her head, snatching at the reins, putting her nose to the ground sometimes accompanied by a whole body twitch as though she's wired to the mains! I've had some success riding her in a full or half nose net. Though best of all last year we took part in a trail by Liverpool University Vet School, on behalf of a supplement manufacturer. The magic powder which worked so well in alleviating her symptoms is now on the market. Made by NAF and called Shake Relief, it sells at £38 per Kilo, which would last less than a month. Not cheap. I have bought some and she's been given it for a week now, with little effect. However it took three weeks in her trail last year for the powder to work. I'm hoping to be able to manage her on a smaller dose once it has become established, in conjunction with the net.
There's always something...this time it was a stick...but it could have been a snake..it could!

Being round horses can be hard work in itself. There seems a timeless continuity that levels out other things in life. Even after a hard days work at the airport and other pressures, I still find myself lingering at the yard, it seems right.

Helvellyn and beyond..

Another trip to the Lakes! Against my own better judgement, though with a reasonable forecast and so a good opportunity, I was driving up the M6 on a Saturday morning! With one thing and another the journey to Glenridding at the far South end of Ullswater, took slightly longer than expected. Strangely enough I didn't really seem to care. The pleasant drive along the lakeside had softened my outlook and relaxed me to the point of possibly not bothering putting on my boots. Rather just sitting on the beach and watching the steamers come and go. I'd parked the car by the Glenridding waterfront by the pier and was the only car parked at 8am. The crew of the lake steamers were just stoking up the boiler on one of the boats. For a few moments it did drizzle, but again this was not important and instead my attention was taken by the Union Jack flag on the stern of one boat as it just fluttered momentarily.
Striding Edge on the left of Helvellyn, with Catstye Cam on the right.

I managed to get myself together and soon faced what for me is always the mos difficult part of a day in the hills.. Finding the way out of the village! I've never been here before and tried my best to navigate using the map, through farm yards and cut-throughs. Who was I trying to kid! There is only one place signposted out of Glenridding...Helvellyn! So I trusted myself to follow along and let things unfold.
Cotton Grass made this bog quite an attractive place to be...

Now I was beginning to rue my slow start. The weather was nice enough and the first climb steep, so I was soon down to tee-shirt and shorts. However my original idea of starting the day with a traverse of the infamous Striding Edge was starting to look like a pilgrims route to the promised land! So many people on sponsored walks all wearing the same shirt..I felt out of place and not in this club. So I had a quick re-think.
View looking back down Swirral Edge to Catstye Cam, hiding Ullswater beyond.

I was looking South West towards Helvellyn, Striding Edge inviting me to the left, Red Tarn straight infront, but to the right Catstye Cam. A look across further up to the adjoining Swirral Edge clinched the decision..hardly a person to be seen. So I gave up some of my hard earned climb, and ran down Birkhouse Moor. I stopped in a beautiful bog full of Cotton Grass and crossed Red Tarn Beck at the foot of a lovely waterfall probably visited infrequently. By the time I was on Catstye Cam's top, the North wind was making itself felt and I could see a squall heading my way. The views were fantastic and I lingered long enough to take in "my mountains", as there was no one else around. This all changed very quickly as the passing shower contained hail...and it hurt. So I was soon cursing my luck whilst fighting a flapping coat and trying to find my hat and gloves!! Summer in the English Lakes.
Helvellyn viewed across Grisedale from St Sunday Cragg.

I found Swirral Edge fun. Lots of impressive looking rock with some exposure but with so many options that even the most wary would find a route to suit. I was a little disappointed to reach the top so quickly, I was just getting going! There were plenty of folk already vying for a place on the sheltered side of the grand summit shelter...so I did the essential of re-folding my map in the lee, for my onward progress!
End of a long walk, now descending from St Sunday Cragg with Patterdale, Glenridding and Ullsawater welcoming

This was really just the start of a big day ahead. I turned South now and shed some clothing! The sky was brighter again and I could see all of my intended route and beyond. Soon passed the peak of Nethermost Pike and quickly skirted the summit path to another of those brilliantly named hills, Dollywagon Pike. Followed by a knee trembling descent on zig zags to Grisedale Tarn, where I daren't stop for fear of not being able to get going again! I now scaled Fairfield on what sometimes felt like vertical scree. I'd been on top of Fairfield on my last Lakes visit, so this route was a sort of continuation. The descent to Cofa Pike was steep and tricky with stones rolling out under my feet like marbles. From here I could look down the U shaped valley of Grisedale with it's green lower pastures leading back to Ullswater. Now only the steady ascent of the beautifully named St Sunday Cragg stood before me and a chance to take my boots off and dip my feet into the cool waters of the lake!
Relaxed lake-side, mid afternoon and a deserted beach in full sun..too good to resist!

Mid-afternoon Saturday in Glenridding was jammed! The car park I'd left a few hours ago was full to bursting! Despite this, there was hardly anyone down by the lake side. So I sat watching sailing craft float by and took my shirt off to let the sun massage my tired shoulders.Another great day...

Camping Chaos..!!

I'd been looking forward to this little trip for so long. I really like outdoor life and enjoy camping for its simplicity and freedom. Last Summer was so wet and grey that it was easy to make excuses not to go, consequently to my regret I didn't spend one..not one, night out under canvas...shameful. So I'd set a date in my diary with friends Giles and Jos, which happened to coincide with the Summer Solstice, and hopefully pleasant conditions....
Besides the sea and sand, there are millions of pebbles on the beach at Porth Neigwl, delightful!

There always seems so much to take. Even though we were camping together, we each took our own tent. After all it is nice to be with friends...but not to wake up face to face! But we did share the cramped car and stopped at Caernarfon to do a communal shop..which provoked the inevitable first bits of friction. Tough decisions over the decadence of bottled water against tap..organic garlic...free range eggs! Thankfully compromises were forthcoming and we now drove the last part of the journey with improving weather and anticipation. We arrived to find plenty of space to pitch and no sign of the hoards of hippies I'd half expected. This was in no small doubt, due to the weather forecast, which so far was proving accurate. The wind was stiff from the South West and there was very low cloud bringing a steady but light drizzly rain. Not to be outdone, we went for a long walk on the beach, where the wind was lighter and there was magically no rain!
Walking back along the beach to the camp site, anything above a hundred feet is in the cloud..

We got lucky in the evening and cooked a great big pan of chilli over the BBQ coals. Then the rain returned.and as though a punishment, just as I made a comment "it seems to be getting brighter" the tent got lashed by the heaviest downpour yet! So we drank beer and told tall tales of savage times when camping..little did we know! By about 3am I was outside my tent holding onto it for dear life! I realised I couldn't do this indefinitely and how stupid I must look, so a quick fix was to pull the car up close. I later re-pitched. A tent further up the site was shredded, its occupants dumped the remains in a bin and went home. Giles's old tent took a hammering, broken zip and split side. Jos lost thee guy lines. There was no let up in the blowing gale all morning and to his credit Jos made the best full BBQ breakfast and all without burning down the hedge where there was the only shelter from the wind. At least the rain had stopped.
Gale force winds whip up the sea and give a hint to the Porth Neigwl's English name, Hell's Mouth

There were some mumblings of going home and signs of mutiny, so I quickly put in place a plan of distraction. We lashed down as best we could and left our tents to their fate. Drove firstly to Aberdaron right at the end of the peninsula. Here we had late morning coffee at Y Gegin Fawr, a delightful cafe with quite a history, accompanied by a blackbird fledgling and dusted regularly by sand blown from the beach. Further up the Llyn is Porthdinllaen. Arguably this lovely little hamlet overlooking the beach at Morfa Nefyn is famous for its pub, Ty Coch, and a fine place it is too. My problem now was getting my non driving duo back to the car!! Anyway the best thing was that the wind was easing and the sun was well and truly out.
Crashing waves at the head of Porth Dinllaen, halted in their march on Yr Eifl on the horizon.

At last our perseverance was rewarded by the kind of evening that can only be truly appreciated by someone who has been to this place. Campsite now almost empty we sorted out the necessaries for tonight's BBQ. Now we could sit at the edge overlooking the bay enjoying the late sun, watching Buzzards hunting over the cliffs. Rooks returning from a day in the fields. Gannets still dive bombing helpless fish further away and a Heron watching carefully over a rockpool left by the ebb. As we tended our food a grey cloud and unmistakable curtain of rain swept across the bay. We'd had our bad weather, now instead this shower tracked south and entertained us with a huge rainbow that spanned the horizon for what seemed like hours. As we finished eating later, we watched and marvelled at Venus rising in the east above Cilan. Though I was still awake, I think I'd entered the calmness that I know can be found here. Perhaps the storm was a good way of finding it. I fell asleep to the gentle sound of small waves tripping up on the beach below.
Barely a few hours previously the sea was white..now a sunbathers delight!

There's nothing that compares with a great nights sleep in a tent. I tried my best to savour the moment and linger, but the early sun was roasting me out of bed. Not that I had anything to complain about..this was perfect. Later Giles walked with me along the subsided old road, where nature has taken hold very quickly. From the cracks in the fenced off section Teasel grows and stands proud above the broken tarmac. There's an old stone cottage surrounded by unkempt garden of honeysuckle and fuschia which adds to the spellbinding charm of this whole wild place. We walked down the steep foxglove and bracken lined slopes to look out over Porth Neigwl from what we call Winkle Pond. A small inlet where a couple of crab and lobster boats fish from. We just found a cool rounded boulder each to sit on and just drink in the the whole scene. Totally emmeresed, but not for long enough,
Tranquillity found at "Winkle Pond"

Before long we were packing up and driving back to Manchester, the only good thing was that the well earned sun came along too!
Undamaged by the gale force winds, Common Spotted Orchids add beauty to this special place.

Puffin Island Wonders

A fair forecast, a chance to catch up with old friends and meet new, tempted me out onto the sea for the first time in quite a while. The plan, fairly straightforward, was to launch at Llanfairfechan and paddle around Puffin Island, some five miles distant across the Eastern end of the Menai Straits.
Mary knows the way ahead! Early into the crossing to Puffin, Great Orme in the distance.

Llanfairfechan is a pleasant enough old sea-side town. Now easily overlooked and by-passed like its near neighbour, Penmaenmawr, by the very road which made them popular in Victorian times. The A55 used to bring tourists and trade to these small coastal towns. So with the advent of the Expressway, time has stood still and if anything there was an air of dereliction about the area not long ago. The new road takes the rushing crowds further on to Anglesey and the Llyn, to sunnier sandier beaches. While quietly and discretely these forgotten towns have been slowly recovering and re-emerging in their own right.
Bumpy water along the cliffs on the North side of Puffin Island, looking West towards Pen Trwyn

The small slipway and shingle beach is a pleasant and quiet enough place to launch. From here we set off, a little later than expected, but still in good time to make the crossing to arrive at Puffin by local High Water at half past one. The Met Office forecast for the day gave a force 3-4 NW-N wind, which proved accurate. One bonus being more sunshine than predicted!
Mary..It's behind you!! The friendly seal emerges at the back of her boat

I was pleasantly surprised how quickly I found my "sea-legs" and it was as though I'd been paddling only yesterday. Though the breeze was not strong, it was Northerly. The sea here is shallow, with mud and sandbanks exposed at low water. So in only moderate winds, the sea can become quite unpleasant. In fact the crossing seemed to pass quickly, taken up with chatting and catching up. There is always a point on any crossing though..when it seems no progress is being made. Similar to walking in the hills and the never reached summit that always seems so far off.
Very inquisitive young seal comes out of the water to see what Maurice has for lunch!

We rounded the Eastern end of Puffin, where there is a Seal colony. Today however there were only two or three to be seen. It was just about High Water, so most were probably out hunting. As expected, the water became quite bumpy with the cliffs exposed to the North. I'd been slightly nervous about this, but again should have had more faith in my ability. I'm sure that riding a horse and kayaking have transferable qualities. Core body strength, whilst remaining relaxed and balanced.
A very cute pose! Do I know you??

The island is home to many breeding seabirds. The higher cliffs and surrounding water and sky were full of life. Razorbills and Guillemots everywhere..some so full of fish they could hardly fly! Of all the gulls, Kittiwakes are my favourite, with better manners and a more refined attitude all round compared with some of their squabbling relatives. And yes...we saw Puffins! Only recently has the island been rid of rats. So it's a delight to see these comical birds making a return.
A quick play in the building tide race in Puffin Sound, before heading home

The tide was already running in Puffin Sound. But a quick cut through soon had us land discretely on the tiny beach of white shingle. Here we had quite a surprise with a young Grey Seal playing fearlessly amongst our boats. Seals are very inquisitive, and very often sneak up behind our boats, they're also wary and the first eye to eye contact, usually has them dive below, with a big blow! so we were even more surprised when our seal came out of the water and sat on the each with us! Is this possibly an ex rescue animal? Nonetheless a charming encounter which topped an amazing day so far.
A dazzling day finished on a very bright note....Llanfairfechan not too distant now

I'm sure I was not alone in wanting to stay longer, but the now ebbing tide would soon empty the water from this estuary area. It had become quite hazy and the coast where we were headed now looked quite indistinct. I paddled with Mary. Whilst Maurice and Julian drifted off somewhat as Juilan tried out his sail rig..to some good effect. We went through an area of what I can only describe as gloopy water, where we were bumped around a bit and though we were paddling, didn't seem to be actually going anywhere. The sea became quieter...the sun came back and suddenly we could see Llanfairfechan in the distance! All of a sudden a huge flock of birds rose from the water infront...hundreds of Common Scoter, they'd been feeding on the muscle beds submerged. Further in the distance we could see the unmistakable black wingtips and bright white of Gannets searching for fish and Sandwich Terns sporadically dropping in emerging with beak-fulls of sand eels! I can only say wow...what an amazing day. We landed and packed up in the sun...this is how it should be...