Sunday, 15 June 2008

Puffin Island Wonders

A fair forecast, a chance to catch up with old friends and meet new, tempted me out onto the sea for the first time in quite a while. The plan, fairly straightforward, was to launch at Llanfairfechan and paddle around Puffin Island, some five miles distant across the Eastern end of the Menai Straits.
Mary knows the way ahead! Early into the crossing to Puffin, Great Orme in the distance.

Llanfairfechan is a pleasant enough old sea-side town. Now easily overlooked and by-passed like its near neighbour, Penmaenmawr, by the very road which made them popular in Victorian times. The A55 used to bring tourists and trade to these small coastal towns. So with the advent of the Expressway, time has stood still and if anything there was an air of dereliction about the area not long ago. The new road takes the rushing crowds further on to Anglesey and the Llyn, to sunnier sandier beaches. While quietly and discretely these forgotten towns have been slowly recovering and re-emerging in their own right.
Bumpy water along the cliffs on the North side of Puffin Island, looking West towards Pen Trwyn

The small slipway and shingle beach is a pleasant and quiet enough place to launch. From here we set off, a little later than expected, but still in good time to make the crossing to arrive at Puffin by local High Water at half past one. The Met Office forecast for the day gave a force 3-4 NW-N wind, which proved accurate. One bonus being more sunshine than predicted!
Mary..It's behind you!! The friendly seal emerges at the back of her boat

I was pleasantly surprised how quickly I found my "sea-legs" and it was as though I'd been paddling only yesterday. Though the breeze was not strong, it was Northerly. The sea here is shallow, with mud and sandbanks exposed at low water. So in only moderate winds, the sea can become quite unpleasant. In fact the crossing seemed to pass quickly, taken up with chatting and catching up. There is always a point on any crossing though..when it seems no progress is being made. Similar to walking in the hills and the never reached summit that always seems so far off.
Very inquisitive young seal comes out of the water to see what Maurice has for lunch!

We rounded the Eastern end of Puffin, where there is a Seal colony. Today however there were only two or three to be seen. It was just about High Water, so most were probably out hunting. As expected, the water became quite bumpy with the cliffs exposed to the North. I'd been slightly nervous about this, but again should have had more faith in my ability. I'm sure that riding a horse and kayaking have transferable qualities. Core body strength, whilst remaining relaxed and balanced.
A very cute pose! Do I know you??

The island is home to many breeding seabirds. The higher cliffs and surrounding water and sky were full of life. Razorbills and Guillemots everywhere..some so full of fish they could hardly fly! Of all the gulls, Kittiwakes are my favourite, with better manners and a more refined attitude all round compared with some of their squabbling relatives. And yes...we saw Puffins! Only recently has the island been rid of rats. So it's a delight to see these comical birds making a return.
A quick play in the building tide race in Puffin Sound, before heading home

The tide was already running in Puffin Sound. But a quick cut through soon had us land discretely on the tiny beach of white shingle. Here we had quite a surprise with a young Grey Seal playing fearlessly amongst our boats. Seals are very inquisitive, and very often sneak up behind our boats, they're also wary and the first eye to eye contact, usually has them dive below, with a big blow! so we were even more surprised when our seal came out of the water and sat on the each with us! Is this possibly an ex rescue animal? Nonetheless a charming encounter which topped an amazing day so far.
A dazzling day finished on a very bright note....Llanfairfechan not too distant now

I'm sure I was not alone in wanting to stay longer, but the now ebbing tide would soon empty the water from this estuary area. It had become quite hazy and the coast where we were headed now looked quite indistinct. I paddled with Mary. Whilst Maurice and Julian drifted off somewhat as Juilan tried out his sail rig..to some good effect. We went through an area of what I can only describe as gloopy water, where we were bumped around a bit and though we were paddling, didn't seem to be actually going anywhere. The sea became quieter...the sun came back and suddenly we could see Llanfairfechan in the distance! All of a sudden a huge flock of birds rose from the water infront...hundreds of Common Scoter, they'd been feeding on the muscle beds submerged. Further in the distance we could see the unmistakable black wingtips and bright white of Gannets searching for fish and Sandwich Terns sporadically dropping in emerging with beak-fulls of sand eels! I can only say wow...what an amazing day. We landed and packed up in the sun...this is how it should be...

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