Wednesday 2 July 2008

Helvellyn and beyond..

Another trip to the Lakes! Against my own better judgement, though with a reasonable forecast and so a good opportunity, I was driving up the M6 on a Saturday morning! With one thing and another the journey to Glenridding at the far South end of Ullswater, took slightly longer than expected. Strangely enough I didn't really seem to care. The pleasant drive along the lakeside had softened my outlook and relaxed me to the point of possibly not bothering putting on my boots. Rather just sitting on the beach and watching the steamers come and go. I'd parked the car by the Glenridding waterfront by the pier and was the only car parked at 8am. The crew of the lake steamers were just stoking up the boiler on one of the boats. For a few moments it did drizzle, but again this was not important and instead my attention was taken by the Union Jack flag on the stern of one boat as it just fluttered momentarily.
Striding Edge on the left of Helvellyn, with Catstye Cam on the right.

I managed to get myself together and soon faced what for me is always the mos difficult part of a day in the hills.. Finding the way out of the village! I've never been here before and tried my best to navigate using the map, through farm yards and cut-throughs. Who was I trying to kid! There is only one place signposted out of Glenridding...Helvellyn! So I trusted myself to follow along and let things unfold.
Cotton Grass made this bog quite an attractive place to be...

Now I was beginning to rue my slow start. The weather was nice enough and the first climb steep, so I was soon down to tee-shirt and shorts. However my original idea of starting the day with a traverse of the infamous Striding Edge was starting to look like a pilgrims route to the promised land! So many people on sponsored walks all wearing the same shirt..I felt out of place and not in this club. So I had a quick re-think.
View looking back down Swirral Edge to Catstye Cam, hiding Ullswater beyond.

I was looking South West towards Helvellyn, Striding Edge inviting me to the left, Red Tarn straight infront, but to the right Catstye Cam. A look across further up to the adjoining Swirral Edge clinched the decision..hardly a person to be seen. So I gave up some of my hard earned climb, and ran down Birkhouse Moor. I stopped in a beautiful bog full of Cotton Grass and crossed Red Tarn Beck at the foot of a lovely waterfall probably visited infrequently. By the time I was on Catstye Cam's top, the North wind was making itself felt and I could see a squall heading my way. The views were fantastic and I lingered long enough to take in "my mountains", as there was no one else around. This all changed very quickly as the passing shower contained hail...and it hurt. So I was soon cursing my luck whilst fighting a flapping coat and trying to find my hat and gloves!! Summer in the English Lakes.
Helvellyn viewed across Grisedale from St Sunday Cragg.

I found Swirral Edge fun. Lots of impressive looking rock with some exposure but with so many options that even the most wary would find a route to suit. I was a little disappointed to reach the top so quickly, I was just getting going! There were plenty of folk already vying for a place on the sheltered side of the grand summit shelter...so I did the essential of re-folding my map in the lee, for my onward progress!
End of a long walk, now descending from St Sunday Cragg with Patterdale, Glenridding and Ullsawater welcoming

This was really just the start of a big day ahead. I turned South now and shed some clothing! The sky was brighter again and I could see all of my intended route and beyond. Soon passed the peak of Nethermost Pike and quickly skirted the summit path to another of those brilliantly named hills, Dollywagon Pike. Followed by a knee trembling descent on zig zags to Grisedale Tarn, where I daren't stop for fear of not being able to get going again! I now scaled Fairfield on what sometimes felt like vertical scree. I'd been on top of Fairfield on my last Lakes visit, so this route was a sort of continuation. The descent to Cofa Pike was steep and tricky with stones rolling out under my feet like marbles. From here I could look down the U shaped valley of Grisedale with it's green lower pastures leading back to Ullswater. Now only the steady ascent of the beautifully named St Sunday Cragg stood before me and a chance to take my boots off and dip my feet into the cool waters of the lake!
Relaxed lake-side, mid afternoon and a deserted beach in full sun..too good to resist!

Mid-afternoon Saturday in Glenridding was jammed! The car park I'd left a few hours ago was full to bursting! Despite this, there was hardly anyone down by the lake side. So I sat watching sailing craft float by and took my shirt off to let the sun massage my tired shoulders.Another great day...

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