Cuckoos and Skylarks

My recent paddle on Windermere, reminded me of some of the beautiful and impressive landscape this area has to offer. Sometimes it's all to easy to overlook places close to home. However a quick visit to any Lakeland town or village, is proof enough that this is a Worldwide tourist destination. There are so many jaw dropping, awe inspiring landscapes globally, yet the English Lakes still captivates so many, with coach loads of visitors from far and wide.

Approaching Waterhead from Windermere. Fairfield Horseshoe in the background

Today I was looking to re-acquaint myself with some classic Lakeland high fells. I parked up at Waterhead, by Ambleside, the destination of my recent paddle! On yet another lovely, sunny but hazy morning. My goal being to climb and walk the Fairfield Horseshoe, which gives the Victorian town of Ambleside its scenic backdrop.The waterfalls at Rydal Hall, which because I've previously walked in the opposite direction, have never seen!

Ambleside sits peacefully at the Northern end of Lake Windermere. From luxury hotels to campsite, four star food to fish chips, it's all to be found here. Not to mention enough outdoor shops to keep the small army of happy trippers kitted out in waterproofs and Wainwrights. Cleverly I thought, I'd timed my walk through town before the shops opened. Though with the smell of bacon in the air, I couldn't help notice...well drool at fine, full fry up breakfasts being served up in B n B's, along the way.

My route took me through the parklandof the Rydal Estate, with its fine hall. A cheeky Chaffinch tempted me to take his photo...waiting just long enough on each fence post, before flying, mockingly to the next! There are formal gardens here which I might someday find time to discover. But on this occasion a visit to the waterfalls below the tea-rooms was all I had time for. Though with the mossy coolness and magical captivation that waterfalls seem to hold, I can easily see why a Summer house was built here, overlooking.

Looking down onto Rydal Water from Nab Scar, Grasmere on the right and the Langdales distant.

Nab Scar is a steep way up! Of course the rewards of quick climbs are usually good views. So every now and then I stopped to catch my breath, keep the sweat out of my eyes, turn round and look down on Rydal Water. With more of neighbouring Grasmere visible with every inch gained. All the time to the hypnotic call of cuckoos, rising from somewhere, down in the woods below.
Great Rigg on the left, followed by Fairfield, Hart Crag and Dove Crag at the head of Rydal Fell

The path from now is clear and though still climbing, far less intense. This is the first time I've walked in this direction. Indeed most people go anti-clockwise. Which is exactly why I've done the opposite. So far I have not seen another person! The views are becoming more open and extensive. However the cloud also seems to becoming darker towards Fairfield, the highest point of the day. So I keep a good pace.
The attractively named St Sunday Crag viewed from Fairfield tempts me North and to Patterdale and Ullswater...but not today

At Great Rigg I stopped a while. I let myself fall onto deep, dry, springy grass. Normally this would be wet and soggy, but in this current dry spell, felt more like a big spongy doormat. The views into Rydal Fell and the head of the valley are spectacular from here. Shared only with Skylarks. Probably my best moment of a great day...just lying in the grass, watching and listening to them, with all of Lakeland as a backdrop.
Looking down Rydal Fell to Windermere, with Coniston visible far right above Heron Pike

I didn't hang around on Fairfield. The wind was cold up there and it felt grey and unwelcoming. The summit is indistinct, with a typical wind shelter and cairn, which in poor visibility can be hard to locate.. Today, though, the views were far reaching and scenic, but I had the urge to keep moving, downhill from now on....mostly!
From Scandale Pass looking North onto Brothers Water and Hartsop, Martindale beyond.

One thing I do enjoy about being in the hills alone, is descending quickly. I realise this is not to everyones taste or capability, so in company I take this into account. But why not exploit gravity? I also get quite a buzz from running, just in control and balance, down steep slopes. Just like galloping a horse, or running a white water rapid, there's an edge! That just survived feeling..
Directly in line from Red Screes, Middle Dodd overlooks Brothers Water, with Place Fell looking on just breaking the horizon

So in a very short time, the rocky Dove and Hart Craggs were passed. A quick glance at my watch and the map. At this rate I'd be back in Ambleside for lunch! So a detour..an addition, took me down a boggy slope, following a National Trust boundary. At Scandale Pass I met my first other people....
Almost back in Ambleside, Wansfell Pike has lush green pasture to its lower slopes

Here again I had a choice of routes. I love the Lakes for this. There are so many options, which makes this kind of roaming the fells so enticing. I'd seen Red Screes on the map and in the distance all day. Now I was looking up its slopes. Before long I was halfway up looking down onto Brothers Water and another idyllic vista, begging exploration...for another day though. I understand that the campsite and nearby pub are excellent.
I cannot recommend highly enough, the delicious ice-cream and coffee from the lakeside cafe at Waterhead.

From the top of Red Screes my new views were down into the infamous Kirkstone Pass and across towards the Kentmere Fells. I ran most of the long sloping descent into Ambleside, slowly changing from high fell to walled fields of dangerously horned looking cattle! Through the throngs of happy shoppers, to a seat at the lakeside cafe. So I earned my delicious whippy icecream. It was so pleasant sat in the warm sun that I stayed for a coffee...and admired the pretty waitress. Can't wait to return!

Fantastic News...!!

Today I rode Heather!!!! Much sooner than I thought possible. Everything seemed right and buoyed by last weeks progress...thought, let's do it...let's go! First of my days off, sunny, breezy and cool. Just perfect. I dragged her saddle out with the rest of her tack. A little ashamed, I've never got round to cleaning it in all the time she's been out of action. I suppose I've been in denial and not wanted to wash away the memories of that last ride...so long ago.
Heather tacked up for the first time in months

Brought her in as on so many other mornings, but today was different. Tacked up without a fuss...except I forgot her girth!! Quick trip to the car and tried fastening it up. To my great surprise, she's actually put on weight! Few adjustments here and there and yes, we're one hole down on her "normal". So again my hard work and effort through the cold grass-less times have payed off.
Down the lane....will you look at all that mane!!

There were a few people around...and I told a couple. But really as I got on at the mounting block, it all felt slightly flat. Where were the fanfares and flags....speeches and announcements. Instead we slipped our moorings and went up the drive off the yard as though it was any horse on any day! But this was very special. I'm sure she knew.
Showing no ill effects, but ready to go back to the field and friends....

Off down the lane. She was striding purposely and completely sound. No limp...no stumbling. She was quite spooky and on her toes. In reality she didn't put a foot wrong. We got to the river all too quick. This is where I'd intended turning round for home. I tried to let her eat grass, but she wanted to keep moving!!! So we walked down towards Banky Meadow. Here we turned at the start of the "sandy track". I hope she keeps this forward going walk...what a delight! We trotted for a hundred yards on the way home, both diagonals. I'm still not absolutely sure, but that's good. She is not far off totally sound, and probably just a little stiff. I can't believe I just rode the three legged horse of a few months ago.
I went shopping for treats! So whisky for the horse...fruit and veg for me, ...right??!

Ouzo was calling and happy to see H return to the field. I went shopping and bought Heather more delicious treats and a bottle of whisky for myself. Rewards all round for a perfect first ride.

Very Good News...!!

During the week, the farrier visited and Heather had a trim and new shoes. I took the opportunity to trot her up for his opinion on her progress. It's difficult for me to tell how she's going when I'm close up to her. So it was good to get his view, which I value. The verdict....she's level. This is very good news. When she was initially injured I wasn't the only one who feared the very worst. So this is a major milestone.
Ouzo standing infront of Heather

More good news. Her feet are in the best condition yet. Testimony to my religious care and attention and Wayne's judgement and skill, in trimming and shoeing. He has suggested I should think about getting her back in work. Tempered slightly with the concern that the bony growth, now quite evident at the point of injury on her leg, may interfere with her movement.
The grass next door looks greener....

So my original estimate of June looks to have been about right. Whilst I feel good about having got so far. I dare not celebrate anything yet, in as much as I don't want to feel disappointment if things don't go well. It's been a long wait and I'm not going to rush in now. Particularly as the ground everywhere is set like concrete. The weather has been fantastic recently....just when I could do with some rain!! All through the Spring it rained and rained...now it's dry, oh apart from one wet night.
But not as good as a bucket of breakfast!

Heather herself has been a little devil in the field. Though the grass in her field is very short, poor and over-grazed...it obviously tastes very good! She no longer comes to a call and during the last week has been in season. I have been threatened by her, as have most of her field mates! I don't know what goes on when I'm not around, but she seems to be picking up lots of cuts, bruises and bites! She gives in to me though. I know her well enough to realise that her threats are just that, if returned equally...she's just a big bully.

Mountain high!

I'd finished another hard shift at work. Lots of things pointed to having the first of my four days off, just relaxing. So why was I rustling things together, late at night and setting my alarm clock for...well too early! Told myself it could all just as easily get packed away...I didn't realy have to go. Indeed I rolled over after the alarm went off. It's so much harder doing things by yourself....no one to tut tut if you're late. What made it more difficult was I hadn't even decided where I was going to go...well somewhere in the Lakes or Snowdonia. Then it dawned on me, after a short doze....I was totally free to go and do whatever I liked....now if that isn't worth doing...then what is!
Having that first lovely hot coffee helped me decide my destination. The weather has been so good for more than a week, with wall to wall sunshine forecast yet again. So it had to be somewhere spectacular...where I wouldn't go alone in marginal conditions. Crib Goch, in Snowdonia. A high knife-edge ridge walk with un-rivaled views coupled with knee trembling exposure...oh yes, a good choice.
To spice things up further I also chose to climb from the North ridge approach. One major advantage to this route is being able to park the car free and almost anytime in the village of Nant Peris. Most people scrap for a slot in the Pen Y Pass carpark and pay handsomely.
After a short walk out of the village, soon found myself at the small bridge over the Afon Nant Peris at Blaen Y Nant. Here the Afon Gennog joins from the South, draining the very slopes I was about to climb. Conveniently a wall follows the river on the East side. So following up was easy despite there being no path to speak of. Behind me now rising were the slopes of the Glyderau. I stopped and watched climbers on the lower cliffs roped impossibly, yet progressing steadily up the shear rock.
Infront the slope climbed steadily for me. I was looking for a waterfall to the right of a huge rock bluff, with the grand sounding name of Dinas Mot. Once reached I took a break and looked round admiring the view and feeling good with my effort so far. I remember mentally noting that this would be a tricky place to be in poor visibility! But not today so onwards...
Glaslyn and Snowdon from Garnedd Ugain
Soon I was on the characteristic red coloured scree of the North ridge, or in fact the whole mountain. The name Crib Goch, translates to Red Ridge. I could already make out the ant like silhouettes of walkers on the ridge proper. I also felt pleased in the fact that I was the only person approaching from this direction....where the rock is quite loose!
Jagged rock of Garnedd Ugain
The ridge itself has to be seen to be appreciated. On my first ever visit I was awe struck and quite intimidated. I crawled along, hardly daring to acknowledge the sheer drop, particularly on the left. This is like walking on the ridge of a house roof. By my third visit....despite my fear of the first time...I went up alone. Though this is no picnic walk....Crib Goch is within the reach of many people. A day never to be forgotten.
Looking back at Crib Goch
Having said all that, it's a bloody hard slog too. Without streams or lakes, it's dry as well!! So after negotiating the pinnacles, I sat in the peace of Bwlch Coch sipping the last of my water!! Soon negotiated more rock achitecture and avoided the trig point of Garnedd Ugain. Instead I dropped to a rarely visited spur, Gyrn Las, looking over the whole of my journey so far, and down to my descent route.
Unique view from Gyrn Las
I briefly joined the Llanberis path from Snowdon's summit. At Clogwyn station, I more or less dropped straight down without trace...down steeply and anonymously...descending steep scree and grass slopes. Right down into the valley. Found a lovely little stream and waterfalls, which must pound in spate...but today were quite magical and put a lovely freshness to a truely magnificent day!

A Lakeland cruise...

Last year was unusual for me. I can only remember visiting the Lakes once, on a very, very wet day by Derwent Water. I also only paddled on a handful of occasions. So with the recent improvement in the weather, I decided to put both things right in one hit!
I faffed about with gear the night before. So on a gorgeous bright morning soon had things loaded and smoothly heading North. In fact it took only an hour and twenty to get to the South end of Windermere...to Fell Foot Country Park, whose gates were locked! Passing locals assured me the gates should be unlocked very soon. So not wanting to waste time, what better thing to do than have a second breakfast! I even managed to get changed just as the gates swung open...
Without much trouble I soon had the boat down by the water, on a little bit of gravel shore in between two slips. Now suddenly I felt the warmth of the sun, reflected, by the gentle lap of the clear water. Looked like I had the lake to myself...unbelievable...my own lake.
Mind you I'd set myself quite a task. I intended paddling from end to end, return. A distance of twenty miles, which I'd set six hours aside for. I was very aware not to go too fast, but the boat was gliding effortlessly on smooth water and the World seemed right and I felt great. The scenery is beatiful and becomes more dramatic the further North up the Lake.
I'd been passed by "The Swan" on it's way up to the same place I was headed...Waterhead by Ambleside. For a brief moment I thought of "The African Queen" sinking the German Navy boat in some film! So easy was the paddling that I let my mind wander...
Belle Island looks like the end of the lake from the approach. But the map showed there to be another third of the lake beyond. By now there were a few yachts out and about and with them came the wind! So I took some nice little surf waves across to Ambleside and landed two and a half hours after setting off.
By now the sun was toasty warm. Too early for lunch...so had the most delicious whippy ice cream. In fact really the best I've ever had, from the little tea room right on the promenade by the lake. Was totally immersed in my own world..shared with passing ducks, swans and geese when the RAF did a low pass and I nearly fell in the water!
This somehow seemed to break the spell. The wind was against me all the way back, right in my face, or more annoyingly just off the quarter. I put my head down and put some effort in. Didn't look at the pretty landscape. My right thumb was blistered and my tennis elbow was serving a whole new ball game in pain! But I won through, actually arriving back to Fell Foot in two hours twenty. Where once off the water I realised the day was a scorcher and not all wind and waves!

Caught in the act...

Resourceful, bold and inquisitive...Heather is a thief and at last caught on camera!! Out of a field of other horses and ponies, she's the only one to brazenly put her head in the back of the hay store and stand there for hours. She seems to have no "full" switch inside and I'm sure one day she'll burst!
I had to use all my cunning and the zoom on the camera, to sneak up and papparrazzi style snap the money shot! Despite my best efforts she caught wind of me, literally and with a swish of her tail the greedy mare turned and spotted me!
Next came the sweet and innocent "look how lovely I am, such a good horsey" face as she approached, asking for treats!! No fooling me. Secretly I'm proud she's a bit of a rogue. Tough girl, she knows how to look after herself. I've known her for nearly two years now. The more I learn the more I wish I knew her past life. I know she's seen a lot...I've the feeling she's not had things easy, but she's a fighter for sure.
I've had fun bringing her in from the field. She's a habit of having a "lie-in" of a morning. Gave me quite a shock first time. All the others stood grazing...Heather lying motionless in the corner of the field. Eventually a twitch of an ear and reluctant roll...she's not a pretty sight in the morning. With the increased daylight, I'm guessing that she's up and active very early and takes this morning nap once the sun is high and warm enough...but before the flies are active.
I let her approach me...then I turn and run away, towards the gate. Usually with a little whinny, she plods into a gentle trot and catches me by the gate. I get a chance to see her moving. Though she's improved so much in the past weeks. She is still lame on the injured leg. She seems to have plateaued in her progress. So again it's hoping and waiting. In the mean time I'm enjoying looking after her and watching her get up to the things that horses do, when left to themselves..

1st BBQ of the Year..!!

Saturday was such a lovely warm day. Came home via the shops for something or other. Think I was looking for inspiration for eating later on. The thought of food is rarely far from my mind, but for some reason it was in the green grocers that I thought "BBQ tonight!" Quickly calculated up that I had nearly everything somewhere or other, including food. Which is what I was in the greengrocers for, salad, of course!
Sent a couple of texts and left a message here or there. Rattled around in the back of the garage and found the barbie looking rusty, but ready. Shoke out the spiders and woodlice. Found some briquettes, from two years ago..last Summer was so wet, I hadn't even opened the bag I bought then! Firelighters and dry-ish wood. Soon had it all stoked up and a lovely little fire crackling away by my feet as I savoured a cool beer...ahh!
Ended up being just me Jim and Jos. Could have been more and a good party, but even if it was just me it would not have mattered. There's something so basic and earthy about having food cooked outside, after a cold wet Winter! Last years re-frozen burgers got eaten as did plenty of German and Polish sausage. Downed with more of any sort of beer and even some Normandy cider. Jos grabbed the camera and caught a true to life snap of the brothers...towards the end of getting stuffed. Have to add Jim had just returned from a week of kayaking his way round Northumberlands coastal pubs!!
What better way to end off an evening like this. Throw a few twigs on the embers and enjoy a few tales by the fire. I'm looking forward to plenty more impromtu BBQ's this year. There seems no point in organising them in advance, the weather usually wins. I'll just make sure the fridge is stocked and the wood is dry...