Cuckoos and Skylarks

My recent paddle on Windermere, reminded me of some of the beautiful and impressive landscape this area has to offer. Sometimes it's all to easy to overlook places close to home. However a quick visit to any Lakeland town or village, is proof enough that this is a Worldwide tourist destination. There are so many jaw dropping, awe inspiring landscapes globally, yet the English Lakes still captivates so many, with coach loads of visitors from far and wide.

Approaching Waterhead from Windermere. Fairfield Horseshoe in the background

Today I was looking to re-acquaint myself with some classic Lakeland high fells. I parked up at Waterhead, by Ambleside, the destination of my recent paddle! On yet another lovely, sunny but hazy morning. My goal being to climb and walk the Fairfield Horseshoe, which gives the Victorian town of Ambleside its scenic backdrop.The waterfalls at Rydal Hall, which because I've previously walked in the opposite direction, have never seen!

Ambleside sits peacefully at the Northern end of Lake Windermere. From luxury hotels to campsite, four star food to fish chips, it's all to be found here. Not to mention enough outdoor shops to keep the small army of happy trippers kitted out in waterproofs and Wainwrights. Cleverly I thought, I'd timed my walk through town before the shops opened. Though with the smell of bacon in the air, I couldn't help notice...well drool at fine, full fry up breakfasts being served up in B n B's, along the way.

My route took me through the parklandof the Rydal Estate, with its fine hall. A cheeky Chaffinch tempted me to take his photo...waiting just long enough on each fence post, before flying, mockingly to the next! There are formal gardens here which I might someday find time to discover. But on this occasion a visit to the waterfalls below the tea-rooms was all I had time for. Though with the mossy coolness and magical captivation that waterfalls seem to hold, I can easily see why a Summer house was built here, overlooking.

Looking down onto Rydal Water from Nab Scar, Grasmere on the right and the Langdales distant.

Nab Scar is a steep way up! Of course the rewards of quick climbs are usually good views. So every now and then I stopped to catch my breath, keep the sweat out of my eyes, turn round and look down on Rydal Water. With more of neighbouring Grasmere visible with every inch gained. All the time to the hypnotic call of cuckoos, rising from somewhere, down in the woods below.
Great Rigg on the left, followed by Fairfield, Hart Crag and Dove Crag at the head of Rydal Fell

The path from now is clear and though still climbing, far less intense. This is the first time I've walked in this direction. Indeed most people go anti-clockwise. Which is exactly why I've done the opposite. So far I have not seen another person! The views are becoming more open and extensive. However the cloud also seems to becoming darker towards Fairfield, the highest point of the day. So I keep a good pace.
The attractively named St Sunday Crag viewed from Fairfield tempts me North and to Patterdale and Ullswater...but not today

At Great Rigg I stopped a while. I let myself fall onto deep, dry, springy grass. Normally this would be wet and soggy, but in this current dry spell, felt more like a big spongy doormat. The views into Rydal Fell and the head of the valley are spectacular from here. Shared only with Skylarks. Probably my best moment of a great day...just lying in the grass, watching and listening to them, with all of Lakeland as a backdrop.
Looking down Rydal Fell to Windermere, with Coniston visible far right above Heron Pike

I didn't hang around on Fairfield. The wind was cold up there and it felt grey and unwelcoming. The summit is indistinct, with a typical wind shelter and cairn, which in poor visibility can be hard to locate.. Today, though, the views were far reaching and scenic, but I had the urge to keep moving, downhill from now on....mostly!
From Scandale Pass looking North onto Brothers Water and Hartsop, Martindale beyond.

One thing I do enjoy about being in the hills alone, is descending quickly. I realise this is not to everyones taste or capability, so in company I take this into account. But why not exploit gravity? I also get quite a buzz from running, just in control and balance, down steep slopes. Just like galloping a horse, or running a white water rapid, there's an edge! That just survived feeling..
Directly in line from Red Screes, Middle Dodd overlooks Brothers Water, with Place Fell looking on just breaking the horizon

So in a very short time, the rocky Dove and Hart Craggs were passed. A quick glance at my watch and the map. At this rate I'd be back in Ambleside for lunch! So a detour..an addition, took me down a boggy slope, following a National Trust boundary. At Scandale Pass I met my first other people....
Almost back in Ambleside, Wansfell Pike has lush green pasture to its lower slopes

Here again I had a choice of routes. I love the Lakes for this. There are so many options, which makes this kind of roaming the fells so enticing. I'd seen Red Screes on the map and in the distance all day. Now I was looking up its slopes. Before long I was halfway up looking down onto Brothers Water and another idyllic vista, begging exploration...for another day though. I understand that the campsite and nearby pub are excellent.
I cannot recommend highly enough, the delicious ice-cream and coffee from the lakeside cafe at Waterhead.

From the top of Red Screes my new views were down into the infamous Kirkstone Pass and across towards the Kentmere Fells. I ran most of the long sloping descent into Ambleside, slowly changing from high fell to walled fields of dangerously horned looking cattle! Through the throngs of happy shoppers, to a seat at the lakeside cafe. So I earned my delicious whippy icecream. It was so pleasant sat in the warm sun that I stayed for a coffee...and admired the pretty waitress. Can't wait to return!